Bangladesh is one the leading exporters of the best quality garments globally. Why is the country providing a different quality of garments to the local people? There is a huge gap between exporting fabrics to the world and the fabrics Bangladeshi people wear both in terms of aesthetics and quality.
Expressing her frustration, concern, and, at the same time, love for the people of Bangladesh, Kehkashan Shafqat, a Pakistani fashion designer, discussed at length with the Industry Insider the textile industry in Bangladesh. Kehkashan Shafqat has more than seven years of experience in the fashion industry in Pakistan and globally, including Bangladesh. In her illustrious career, she has been working with brands like ALKaram, Sana Safinaz, and Khaadi.
Working conditions
Kehkashan had a great experience working in Bangladesh and almost adapted to the environment, so much so that she felt at home. However, she observed a difference in the working conditions in Bangladesh compared to the workplaces she had previously worked in.
“I have had a very good experience working here. The only difference is in terms of speed. Since I am used to the Pakistani working culture, things happen a bit quicker there than what I have experienced in Bangladesh,” said Kehkashan.
From decision-making to the final execution, the whole thing works in a steady and analog way. However, she didn’t face much hassle in communication. “People are very cooperative; there are Urdu-speaking people, and sometimes, if someone doesn’t speak Urdu, they communicate in Bangla, which is also very easy to catch.”
“Experts would love to work in Bangladesh”
The environment the recruiters provide to their foreign employees is something to be appreciated. It shows the potential of an industry. Bangladesh has the skills, and the country is now a step ahead in hiring experts from outside.
“Bangladesh has hired many experts from other countries; they will do the visa work for you, do the ticketing, and provide you with very good accommodation. One must appreciate this to leave their place and move to Bangladesh to work,” Kehkashan noted.
“One must understand the creative field well”
“Fashion is a creative field; it is not a job from 9 AM to 5 PM like accounting or finance. I used to get only a day off in a week. To have something creative, you must have a creative mind. Companies need to understand the creative field and the creative process well.”
Kehkashan doesn’t claim this to be true for every sector or all the other textile companies. Like in many other sectors of the country, this issue must be addressed. For people working here, whether a desk job, fieldwork, or even a creative job like fashion designing, a fixed 9 AM to 5 PM is a common scenario. This limits the creative process, she believes.
“I see my colleagues from Bangladesh do not get a holiday for more than three or four days. We give 9 to 10 hours in the office. The place should be a free space where you can bring new ideas and thoughts for which we are brought into the industry.”
“Bangladesh does not provide the same fabrics to their own people that they export to the world”
One of Kehkashan’s strong observations of Kehkashan is that she saw in the industry that local customers get different quality products exported from Bangladesh.
“You are giving silk to the women in the hot summer, providing rough and uncomfortable cotton. I don’t understand why the quality differs when you export. If you can make for them (foreign countries), then why can’t you provide the same quality of fabric to your own people?”
“I feel like there is a huge gap in aesthetics and fabric quality. You introduce things, and you educate people on what they should be wearing, and that’s how trends are set. There is a huge gap; fill it,” she urged.
In Bangladesh’s fashion culture, looking good is often the priority over being comfortable. She said, “You don’t have to be uncomfortable just to look good. Comfort and aesthetics can go hand in hand. And that’s what local brands should provide.”
There is a demand for Pakistani-branded Kurta-Pajama and Shalwars in Bangladesh. In every other corner of Newmarket or Bongo Bazar, a shop claims to have Pakistani dresses. Kehkashan has noticed the same demand for Pakistan-origin clothes amongst the locals.
Giving examples of the regular wear of the common people like office and college-goers, she thinks brands here do not have much more to offer, though she believes the country can make better clothes for the commoners at a way cheaper rate.
“Brands will cost four to five thousand taka, and the fabrics are not soft. Local people are willing to spend a lot of money on quality fabric and clothes from Pakistan. I think you (Bangladesh) can provide better at a much cheaper rate to your people,” she said.
So, what needs to be done? According to her, three basic changes can make up for what is missing in the industry.
“Trust your designers”
“We (Pakistan) have fashion schools and degrees and therefore have an understanding of design and aesthetics for which lots of people from Pakistan are being hired. So, if you are calling experts based on their experience, you must trust them. If you hire the skill, you have to trust the skills. Give them the space and freedom for what they do, and let them be a little more creative.”
“Export is fine; think about the locals too“
Generally, the industry is more export-oriented. The owners always worry about how the exports can get bigger and bigger. Besides exports, there is also a big room for the local market.
Kehkashan said, “Women in Bangladesh love to buy quality clothing from whoever is providing them, no matter how costly. So if the locals make some changes, maybe the aesthetics or the right fabrics, they can tap into that and grab the people’s demand.”
“Keep it Simple, soft fabric, cut cost”
“Think out of the box is a common saying in the industry.
People want simple designs, easy cuts, and a lot of breathing spaces between the patterns. They want something different and then produce what Chanel or Gucchi has been producing. Even they are also making simple designs,” Kehkashan candidly talked about how things should be done.
“In the fashion industry, we work for people. So, out of 100%, we provide 80% of what people want, and 20% do the creativity,” she added.
Ethnic wear is the go-to fashion these days. She said, “People want simple-looking Shalwarey with pretty prints and simpler cuts. I see people going to Islampur and Newmarket to buy clothes; then they go to a tailor and make a customized dress. Going to these places is time-consuming and a hassle, right? So, all these can be provided.”
Ethical practices and the use of AI in the fashion industry
Sustainability and ethical practices have become increasingly important in the fashion industry. AI has also taken part in it. According to GlobeNewswire’s stat-based platform report, in 2022, the market of AI in the fashion industry was estimated at $1.2 billion and projected to reach $16.3 billion by 2030. So, how can a brand combat AI while maintaining its originality?
“Technology was always there. We also use software today to make our patterns and check how they will look when worn. So, keep it simple with easily pulled-off cuts and patterns. That’s how you give what people want while maintaining your brand’s originality,” opined the experienced designer.
The fast fashion model has been criticized for its environmental impact. According to the United Nations Environment Program report, the fashion industry generates 10% of the global waste, which is more than international flights and shipping combined and accounts for a fifth of the 300 million tonnes of plastic waste produced globally each year.
“People now don’t want to wear the same clothes repeatedly. So fast fashion is a fact now. For the environment, there are a lot of brands that are working. Say, for example, a brand gives paper bags instead of plastic. Inside the bag, there are seeds. They request their customers to plant the seeds in the bag and water it, contributing to growing a plant from each sale; how great of an idea,” remarked Kehkashan.
“A fashion designer can take inspiration from anywhere”
If we take examples of the world around us, every country tries to imprint its culture into its fashion. Kehkashan reflected on this matter, saying, “One can easily relate to their culture and tradition if it looks simple and aesthetically pleasing. A designer primarily works how they are told to; however, that shouldn’t be the only way. One must have creative freedom and be trusted fully by their coworkers.”
In that case, why only depend on one particular culture? A fashion designer can take inspiration from anywhere. As a dominant player in the global market for over a decade, Bangladesh has the resources to flourish in the local market, and Kehkashan concluded, hoping that Bangladesh will fill that local market need gap soon.
Md. Imran is passionate about learning about the changes taking place in the broader economic spectrum of the world and tries to study and write about it in detail.
mohd.imranasifkhan@gmail.com